Sunday, October 25, 2009

Cambodia Part 1 - The Temples of Angkor

There are a few places in the world that really take your breath away. One of those are the temples built by the Angkor Empire from the 10th to the 12th century.

The jewel in the crown is the spectacular domes of Angkor Wat. This massive structure faces west, synonomous with funeral rites, so it is was probably built as a tomb.



No matter which angle you look at the complex it is impressive. The shot below is looking from the opposite, east side.



The temples mean so much to the Khmer people and they are a real source of  identity for a nation that has been through so much hell. The area actually contains hundreds of temples in addition to the famous Angkor Wat and it was the centre of the empire that ruled over most of South-East Asia from around the year 800 until 1400. There would have been thousands of buildings but as only the temples were made of stone they are all that remain, in various states of disrepair, adding to the atmosphere.

One of the most spectacular of the ruins is Ta Prohm, also known as the jungle temple. Here the forest has reclaimed most of the area, with massive tree roots covering the temple walls.





Nearby there are twin temples, more recent in origin, built late in the 12th century. The first photo is Thommanon and below that is Chau Say Tevoda.




One of the very different temples is that of Prasat Kravan as it is built out of brick, instead of the sandstone that most of the temples in the region are made of. Prasat Kravan is also one of the oldest structures, built in about 921, and inside its five towers are spectacular carvings. How they managed to make such art out of brick is a technique lost to modern man.




Another of the older temples, located a fair distance north of all the others and therefore less visited is Banteay Srei. This small temple was built around 967 out of a pinkish-coloured stone and the torrential rain that fell as we visited this site seemed to add to the experience. Many of it's impressive carvings have been moved to the National Museum in Phnom Penh.




The centre of the empire was found at Angkor Thom, the walled city, about 10 square kilometers in size. It would have been a grand sight with 8m high walls, 20m high gates and surrounded by a 100m wide moat, apparently filled with hungry crocs.

The Bayon is one of the most astonishing structures in the city with over 50 towers covered in carved heads, looking at you from all angles.




The Baphuon is unusual in that is built as a pyramid and contains a long elevated walkway that draws you into the temple.




A small temple amongst the trees just outside the royal enclosure is Preah Palilay. Some distance away from most of the ruins, I found myself walking alone imagining what life was like back in the Angkor period. The jungle again is working on taking back what man has claimed.





Just outside the royal enclosure, facing the central square is the 350m long Terrace of the Elephants, where the king could view his subjects. There are a number of small temples called the Kleangs in the large open area.





You wonder when you visit a World Heritage site like Angkor if you will get 'temple fatigue' but the three days I spent walking in the footsteps of the mighty Angkor Kings found me continually amazed at the size of the buildings, the detail in their structure and the incredible carvings. It really is a national treasure for the people of Cambodia.





3 comments:

  1. Great photos and amazing trees

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  2. What an amazing place. It is incredible that man was able to build such structures so long ago without any engineering qualifications or equipment and how on earth were they able to do such amazing carvings especially in the Temple Prasat Kravan. Great work John and how wonderful you have had the opportunity to visit this place. It is like a History lesson reading your blog.

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  3. Those tree roots look like the clutches of a gigantic monster. A bit eerie...

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